It’s easy to slag off Jamie Oliver. If I’m a lazy journalist in for a quick laugh, I’ll slag him off. If I can be really offensive while doing it, all the better. He’s there, he’s moderately annoying, he’s successful in what he does, and he makes odd choices (like advertising Sainsbury’s salmon when he really shouldn’t be). In Britain, he’s the template for the celebrity that lazy journalists can knock down.
Yet he keeps bouncing back and now, for me, he’s gone for something really interesting: school meals. He’s basically transformed the school meals system in Greenwich:
But gradually everything fell into place. The menus worked out, and the processed food was consigned to history - “You’ll never sell a single decent meal if you still have chips”. A contract for proper meat was negotiated with Harvey Nichols, retailer to the rich and famous, which worked out cheaper than the previous one for processed chunks with a wholesaler and, biggest achievement of all, the kids started eating Jamie’s food. “It was a close-run thing,” he says. “When we first abandoned the processed food, most of the kids abandoned us. The dining-room was almost empty for days, and it was only when we had a spell of really nasty weather and the kids couldn’t be bothered to go elsewhere that they started coming back. Still, every sucker deserves an even break.”
And the kids have stayed back. Roughly 600 kids now use the canteen regularly, with another 100 buying Oliver’s healthy packed lunches, and the two-week cycle of menus - shortly to be extended to a three-week cycle - are in place in 25 Greenwich schools and by the end of the summer the fig ure will have risen to nearly 80.
Yes, he’s doing it for a television show. Yes, it all just adds to the cult of his celebrity. Yes, councils are still only spending 37 pence a head on school meals (the price of a bag of crisps at retail), which is the real national scandal. Yes, Ruth Kelly only met him because he’s Jamie Oliver.
But think of it like this. If we can harness the power of celebrity like we can harness the power of the atom, we could change the world. Or blow it up. One or the other.